It is one of the most popular skateboarding street elements.
Learn how to build a skate grind rail to improve your ollies, slide tricks, and transitions.
One of the best things about skateboarding is that you can build your own mini skatepark out of core elements, obstacles, and features.
If you have a half-pipe, a funbox, a pyramid, a bank ramp, and a skateboard rail in your backyard, you can pretty much do any skate trick.
Railings are everywhere, and they let skateboarders slide, grind, and do a wide range of other tricks in public.
But what if you could put up a stable, moveable structure anywhere, not just in skateparks?
It’s not hard to make a simple grind rail that you can ride.
Ideally, you’d want to build a structure that is simultaneously solid, sturdy, long in length, and portable.
It must also slide and grind perfectly and stay in place all the time for next-level performance.
There are several DIY grind rail models available online.
You can choose between making a custom-made street grind rail or a similar version to the one that is often found at skateparks.
The trick is to find a pipe – or flat bar – that grinds well and a solid structure that supports all the weight that will be applied.
Tools and Materials
It’s not hard to make grinding rails, and you won’t have to spend a lot of money to make a strong structure.
All the materials you need to build a good skate rail can be found at your local hardware store for between $25 and $50.
Then, whether you do it with the help of a few friends or by yourself, it shouldn’t take more than an hour.
The structure can be made of wood and steel, steel and PVC, or a combination of all three.
For example, you can make your own model out of strong, zinc-coated steel, add height adjustments that don’t need tools, and make something that doesn’t need any upkeep.
Once the building is up, you can put a flat, square rail or a pipe or tube on top.
Here’s everything you need to make a cheap, signature skate grinding rail without welding:
• One 6’5″ base plank made of pine (6 inches wide, 1.5 inches thick)
• One 6’5″ Pine middle plank (6 inches wide, 1.5 inches thick)
• One 6’5″ pine plank for the top (6 inches wide, 1.2 inches thick)
• Two 6’5″ Plywood planks (0.5 inches thick)
• One steel tube, pipe, or flat bar that is 6’5″ long
Instructions for Building
Now that you have everything you need, follow this step-by-step guide to make the best custom skateboard rail:
1. Measure and mark the length of your rail on the pine and plywood planks, pipe, or flat bar, for example 6’5″;
2. Cut the pieces of wood and steel to the length you want;
3. Drill five holes evenly spaced apart and screw the middle and top pine planks together and perpendicularly (T shape);
4. Connect the T-shaped frame and the pine base plank with screws;
5. Measure the building from the ground to the top of its diagonal side;
6. Mark that size on the two pieces of plywood;
7. Cut the pieces of plywood;
8. Screw each side of the rail structure to the plywood boards;
9. Put silicone on the spot where the pipe or flat bar will sit;
10: Drill four evenly spaced holes in the pipe or flat bar that are bigger than the screw heads;
11. Drill the bottom of the tube or flat bar with a smaller drill;
12. Tighten the screw on the grind rail;
In the end, you’ll want a grinding surface that lasts a long time, gives you lots of options for tricks, and makes them easy to do. The base of the skateboard grinding rail will be more stable if it is wider and heavier. You can even put a few foam pads on it that don’t slide around to keep it from moving.
Remember that your skateboard’s trucks should fit in the grinding area.
If you want a rounded rail, choose a zinc alloy tube for the best resistance to impact and corrosion.
The goal is to build a structure that can stand up to both hard-core skaters and heavy riders.
Make sure that none of the screws will stop the skateboard from moving along the rail. A small amount of wax can also help make it work better.